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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.